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Breeding of flower beetles and rhinoceros beetles
Breeding equipment ;)
We can use glass or plastic tanks or terrariums for breeding of beetles. The size should be selected according to the size and number of beetles. In a 25x25x35 cm terrarium, I usually breed 6 or 7 pairs of Eudicella, or 3 pairs of Chellorhina. When breeding larger beetles, such as Goliathus goliathuns or Dynastes hercules, it is more than clear that these species should be placed in a much larger terrarium. The beetles will feel much better and most importantly, their beauty and size will shine. The breeding tank must be easily accessible and first and foremost well ventilated.
Lighting
We can use fluorescent tubes and lamps as a source of light. Be careful not to overheat the tank. I recommend turning on the lighting for the entire day before placement of beetles and placing a thermometer in the tank on the surface of the substrate. If the temperature in the terrarium is up to 28 °C in the evening, everything is alright and we can start introducing the beetles. As a rule of thumb we should provide additional light for flower beetles but we don't need to provide additional light for rhinoceros beetles, because the latter are beetles with evening or night activity.
Substrate
Leaf litter is the basic component of the substrate for larvae of flower and rhinoceros beetles. Beech leaf litter with the addition of decayed wood is the most widely used by the breeders. We can also add various quantities of horse or cow manure to the substrate. But be careful! Livestock are preventively treated against various parasites and worms. This could kill the larvae very easily. Such raw materials should therefore be obtained from absolutely safe sources. You must be sure that the animals did not receive any drugs during the last two or three months. Certain flower beetles species require the addition of sand into the substrate prior to pupation. This is required not only for the pupation itself but also for the cocoons to become stronger (Ranzania, Goliathus, Cheirolasia). I use a substrate composition with the ratio of 3:1 (leaf litter : decomposed wood) for flower beetles, and 2:1 or 1:1 for rhinoceros beetles. The substrate can be crumbled into smaller particles using a garden grinder, mixer and so on.
Before you place the beetles
Pour approximately 5-8 cm layer of substrate, which must have proper humidity, into the terrarium. We should keep the humidity by moisturizing from time to time, for example using a sprinkler for flowers. Place some small branches and pieces of bark on the surface. They help avoid excessive drying of the substrate and serve as a support for the beetles against falling on their backs (such position can be fatal for example in the flower beetle Ranzania splendens as soon as after several hours).
Feeding dish
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I use oak (oak-wood) slices as a feeding bowl. To make these oak-wood slices, cut an oak branch 8-10 cm thick to approximately 4 cm thick blocks. Knock a nail into the middle of the block so that the nail protrudes on the opposite site by 1 cm. Then stick fresh food on the protruding nail every day (such as slices of banana, apple, pear, apricot, and others). The nail prevents the beetles from snatching the food off onto the substrate. Another type of feeder can be used for commercially available food based on gelatin. Such food is sold in small plastic cups with a protective plastic foil. The protective foil should be peeled off before placing the cup into the feeder. We can make this type of feeder by drilling a hole in the oak block using a lathe to match the diameter of the cup.
Breeding
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Place beetles into the prepared terrarium. The beetles usually start mating very quickly. Approximately 14 days after the mating (approximately 14 days for Eudicella smithi bertherandi, 5-8 days for Ranzania splendens, and 30 days for Cetonischema speciosa jousselini), the female beetles start laying eggs, which are usually white or beige, oval and 1 to
Eggs and larvae
Small larvae start hatching out from the eggs after some 14 days to 1 month (depending on the species). During its life history, the larva grows through three instars. The larvae are known as L1 after the hatching out (1st instar larva), L2 (2nd instar larva) after the first moult, and L3 (3rd instar larva) after the second moult. The larvae should be taken out regularly and placed into suitable containers with substrate. We can use for example 5 or 10-liter plastic buckets with a lid. We must remember to make a sufficient number of holes in the lid to ensure air access. The larvae of certain species, especially those belonging to the genera Amaurodes, Chellorhina, Mecynorrhina, Megalorrhina, Trichaulax, but also some species from the genus Eudicella, have cannibalistic tendencies. For that reason they must be bred separately. I give some additional food to all larvae from time to time, such as lettuce leaves or watermelon peel. Sometimes granulated food for dogs can also be added (these granules, along with small larvae of flower beetles, serve almost as an essential food supplement for Fornasinius fornassini). The larvae start pupating at the end of the third instar phase.
Damaged cocoon or larva pupated outside the substrate
It may sometimes happen that a cocoon is damaged or the pupa falls out or larvae of rhinoceros beetle pupate on the surface of the substrate rather than in the pupation chamber. Initially, I tried to put the pupa in a toilet paper roll or similar setting, but the results were poor. Finally I found out that Florex (made in Czech Republic) seems to be a very good alternative in this case. Florex is a hard sponge substance used to arrange flowers, and is available in two types known as green Florex and grey Florex. Since grey Florex is used to arrange dry flowers, it takes no water and cannot be used for the pupae. Green Florex is intended for the arrangement of live flowers and takes water very well. It can be bought in flower shops and similar outlets. It is supplied in blocks of approximately 20 x 10 x 8 cm. The procedure is as follows: Select a plastic box with a lid of proper size. Then cut an appropriately-sized piece of Florex using a sharp knife and put it into the box. The piece should be so high to reach almost or completely to the lid. Then soak the entire box with Florex into hot water and let it soak well. Take a teaspoon and scoop out a hole in Florex matching the shape and size of the pupa. Then put the pupa into the hole and close the box with the lid. Make sure to make holes in the lid to supply air and place the box in the dark. Even when using this procedure, beetles can come out of the pupa with deformed wings, but the percentage of damaged beetles is much lower compared to breeding in toilet paper rolls.
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Cocoon
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Larva changes into the imago in the cocoon. It takes most frequently from 2 to 3 months. After this period, a new beetle comes out. The total duration of development from the eggs up to an imago takes approximately 3 to 24 months in flower beetles and 10 to 30 months in rhinoceros beetles. Adults of most species of flower beetles live for 2 to 3 months. Rhinoceros beetles usually live longer.
Special thanks: Franta Kopecký, Ota Plešinger, Kamila, Jarda and Lubor in Sleepteam Labs.
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